
In late 2011, I embarked on a journey that would have a major impact on my life. I had been fascinated by Central Europe and the Balkans for many years, but after a rather tumultuous period in my life, I finally decided to take a step back from daily life and explore both the region and myself. And the journey proper began, as all great journeys should, with a train, this time from Berlin Hauptbahnhof.

In Munich, I managed to fulfill an ambition I had harboured since my early twenties — to visit the Oktoberfest. I found the event, and its atmosphere, extraordinary. I had been friends with German people for several years and knew how fun they are, but seeing the Bavarians in their lederhosen and dirndl, giving their all as they sang along to power ballads in a packed wooden tent was something to behold.

Visiting Dachau concentration camp and confronting the brutality and banal cruelty of humanity was a powerful and deeply moving experience, and one that everyone should go through. After the horror of seeing the tools of the holocaust in situ, the Jewish memorial was a simple, yet beautiful, symbol of defiance.

In 2011, the Old Town of Warsaw was finished but lacked the sense of being a lived-in place, especially in winter. It felt empty and a little odd, like a theme park to someone’s impression of a lost national identity. When I returned a few years ago, I was pleased to find it had come alive, and the once-pristine restored buildings now had the requisite lived-in feel to make them seem real.

Belgrade was, for me, a city of contrasts. It was a once-noble city that was drifting into obscurity, and although I spent many a happy hour with wonderful people in my hostel on the Danube, the streets felt a little forbidding. In many ways, I would like to return there the most out of all the places I visited, to see how it has evolved over the intervening years.

I visited many other cities other than those shown in this collection, but Sarajevo was the one I fell in love with. The old town is of course very well restored and it is in many ways very pretty. But there is something extraordinary about the place, perhaps the entire valley, where it sits. There is a type of magic in the air, and one cannot help but feel sad at how much these wonderful people have suffered.